ACAV We both wanted to send the chronicle of the rise, we see that as Sebastian Alfaro said deixa s'ho some dels nostres casporros vol-looking to replace it, tant els seriosos not coneixem:
On December 16 the members of Club La Pedrera Muntanyes Cape Borriol Lluís Jorge Pallares rose to the top of Cerro Aconcagua (6964 m) along the route known as the Polish Glacier, more specifically by the variant "of the Poles directly or via the Argentines."
At 01:00 in the morning (Argentina) sounded the alarm in the store's Camp 2 at 5,800 m. Inside the store the temperature was around -10 degrees below zero outside the store the atmosphere was about 19 degrees below zero. At 2:40 came the three climbers (Jorge out, Lluís Pallarés i Alejandro Ramis) from Camp 2 to the first frost ramps on the route. At 6:00 am. dawn on the climb Aconcagua i continued to slowly but surely.
At 7:30 in the morning and at altitudes of 6,400 m, Alejandro Ramis had to turn around due to altitude sickness with severe headaches and dizziness.
About 9:00 am faced one of the key steps of the route, the so-called "bottleneck" at 6,500 m. ice ramps have reached an inclination of 60 º. Leaving this
after 3 hours and faced the last key step of the route, a corridor of snow from 60 º to 6,800 me a stack of 10 meters and II ° of difficulty thus leaving the final edge that would lead to the top in about 2 hours.
at 15:40 pm and after 13 hours of intense wound to the roof of America and Lluís Cabo Jorge Pallares, becoming the first expedition that crowned the summit via this route as it takes time.
The descent was made by the normal route, with a tremendous fatigue and with little food or water. In four hours managed to descend to Camp 2, where they waited for his teammate Alejandro Ramis and recovered a total of 17 hours activity.
The third member of the expedition Alejandro Ramirez decided to wait a few days to attempt a second assault , But this could not come because of the strong wind that blew over them.
Despite the intense cold of the night the morning was very good and went well all day except from 14:00 h of the Ascension, which came a snowstorm that makes them a little guidance on the final.
The route "directly from the Poles or path of the Argentine" is a demanding route, which earns a drop of 1200 feet between the 5,800 and 6960 meters high. Therefore it is necessary a great shape for the final day of attack and a perfect acclimation and of course, expect a good weather window allowed where the mountain ascent.
is a route which has a slope of 40 or 45 degrees constant and where appear stretches exposed, where the slope reaches 60 degrees. We should add that no one had gone as it takes time, so had to open the entire footprint from the field2 to the top. Difficult thing i greatly delay the rise.
According to comments from people who lives every year in base camp (4,200 m square Argentina) is an unfrequented route each season (it is estimated that about 10 expeditions), because the other side of this exit route more accessible so-called "Polish false," crossing that provides access to the normal route from the field 2 to win the top so with less difficulty. The expedition left
des Borriol 30th November, reaching Argentine territory on 1 December. After 3 days of trekking to base camp approach began the work of acclimatization and assembly of height fields. Field 1 to 4900 m and Camp 2 at 5,800 m, which would take about 12 days of hard work.
At this time members of the expedion rest in the city of Mendoza, regaining strength. The arrival is scheduled for December 24 at noon at his hometown, Borriol.
expedition members appreciate your interest in all media communications, family, friends and hope to continue and incidentally contando con vuestro UPCOMING Support for activities.
thanks
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