Our casporros are already here. After many hours of travel we are finally home now. This evening will come, as every year, around Christmas Borriol. We have been very happy, quite burnt by the sun and not so skinny as usual. We have not heard that phrase "never again" or that another "sell the material" so sure of ourselves again to enjoy this sport. The phrase most remarkable moment, was "not in a season again to taste the ham" ... (It seems the famous advertising "The Almendro)
ACAV We both wanted to send the chronicle of the rise, we see that as Sebastian Alfaro said deixa s'ho some dels nostres casporros vol-looking to replace it, tant els seriosos not coneixem:
On December 16 the members of Club La Pedrera Muntanyes Cape Borriol Lluís Jorge Pallares rose to the top of Cerro Aconcagua (6964 m) along the route known as the Polish Glacier, more specifically by the variant "of the Poles directly or via the Argentines."
At 01:00 in the morning (Argentina) sounded the alarm in the store's Camp 2 at 5,800 m. Inside the store the temperature was around -10 degrees below zero outside the store the atmosphere was about 19 degrees below zero. At 2:40 came the three climbers (Jorge out, Lluís Pallarés i Alejandro Ramis) from Camp 2 to the first frost ramps on the route. At 6:00 am. dawn on the climb Aconcagua i continued to slowly but surely.
At 7:30 in the morning and at altitudes of 6,400 m, Alejandro Ramis had to turn around due to altitude sickness with severe headaches and dizziness.
About 9:00 am faced one of the key steps of the route, the so-called "bottleneck" at 6,500 m. ice ramps have reached an inclination of 60 º. Leaving this
after 3 hours and faced the last key step of the route, a corridor of snow from 60 º to 6,800 me a stack of 10 meters and II ° of difficulty thus leaving the final edge that would lead to the top in about 2 hours.
at 15:40 pm and after 13 hours of intense wound to the roof of America and Lluís Cabo Jorge Pallares, becoming the first expedition that crowned the summit via this route as it takes time.
The descent was made by the normal route, with a tremendous fatigue and with little food or water. In four hours managed to descend to Camp 2, where they waited for his teammate Alejandro Ramis and recovered a total of 17 hours activity.
The third member of the expedition Alejandro Ramirez decided to wait a few days to attempt a second assault , But this could not come because of the strong wind that blew over them.
Despite the intense cold of the night the morning was very good and went well all day except from 14:00 h of the Ascension, which came a snowstorm that makes them a little guidance on the final.
The route "directly from the Poles or path of the Argentine" is a demanding route, which earns a drop of 1200 feet between the 5,800 and 6960 meters high. Therefore it is necessary a great shape for the final day of attack and a perfect acclimation and of course, expect a good weather window allowed where the mountain ascent.
is a route which has a slope of 40 or 45 degrees constant and where appear stretches exposed, where the slope reaches 60 degrees. We should add that no one had gone as it takes time, so had to open the entire footprint from the field2 to the top. Difficult thing i greatly delay the rise.
According to comments from people who lives every year in base camp (4,200 m square Argentina) is an unfrequented route each season (it is estimated that about 10 expeditions), because the other side of this exit route more accessible so-called "Polish false," crossing that provides access to the normal route from the field 2 to win the top so with less difficulty. The expedition left
des Borriol 30th November, reaching Argentine territory on 1 December. After 3 days of trekking to base camp approach began the work of acclimatization and assembly of height fields. Field 1 to 4900 m and Camp 2 at 5,800 m, which would take about 12 days of hard work.
At this time members of the expedion rest in the city of Mendoza, regaining strength. The arrival is scheduled for December 24 at noon at his hometown, Borriol.
expedition members appreciate your interest in all media communications, family, friends and hope to continue and incidentally contando con vuestro UPCOMING Support for activities.
According to latest information received, our top casporros have done the route "of the Polish Directísima. Do not know much more than simply have been the first to make the route this year and have created high expectations for others in the mountain climbers. They say it was very hard but in a day or two will be in Mendoza, and they also send us a chronicle of adventure with some of the photos of the route. What we want to tell us and to see here, CONGRATULATIONS!.
Our casporros have already installed the satellite connection to the field 2. So keep us informed at all times. This latest generation device is very complicated to use and very delicate when transported. From the clubhouse in Borriol we offer, if weather conditions are good, the arrival live on top. We hope that has not been forgotten man, not stained with oil Cona ham.
Our "Intrepits Youth" have already mounted the field 2. Yesterday we reported how things go. They are currently resting at base camp and two camps have assembled the "Polish way." For the moment, it was the season, nobody has raised or tried by this way, so there are footprints on the path. They say, after spending a night in the field casporros 2 with wind, headache and very cold, which from the field 2 the view of the route to the summit is awesome. The plan is: go to sleep today in the field 1, field 2 tomorrow, after tomorrow you can open a map and go back to sleep camp1. Resting a day at camp 1 and then finally make the final assault to the 17th. All this was in the snow whenever conditions and weather conditions are good.
note, great news!, Our casporros found an evolution of the Jeti. In Polish the same way, in a field, our friend Louis went out to dinner after a sad Pissa sopistant with a piece of ham, bread and two without polvorones "Aurelia" for dessert. Then he heard a loud noise, turned on the front and saw an amazing thing: being a doormat, which had the same jeti arrimat the tent, probably looking for a quotation mark cigarette Luis and Alejandro had hidden or that piece ham that George was away in Peru in a backpack. Just in time, Alexander took the camera and was able to send us this great graphic document Jeti where we discover the full conversation with George attacking his wife and stealing her mobile phone on ... Now, after a lot of exits in the mountains, our casporros already closer Reinold Messner, and we can assure that the Jeti exists and is evolving with the times eating phone, satellite phones and smoking some strange substance .
We have reported that currently casporros have assembled a field and are in basecamp. Soon the country will rise to a sleeping area and try to mount 2. If field 2 the mount back down to basecamp to rest a couple of days and then make the final assault. They are expected to climb to the top 16 or 17 a day. The weather seems to be good, expect aguante a week, the ham will last if not both.
casporros The La Pedrera are already at the base camp of Aconcagua. The latest news is on Saturday, where we were told that part of being good, we reported that they had reached the Base Camp and Camp I begin to mount in the coming days.
They kept us informed comment at the end of the week try to connect again.
The casporros already in "Punta de Vacas" that is not the entrecote solomillo nor, it seems more than a park next to Mendoza where acclimated, and as we see in this link have become somewhat mystical parquepuntadevacas (is excellent) ... Alexander is the same with dreadlocks that Argentina has a month to find some of the laughter and cigarrillo known Silo ... Yesterday they also leave the press article "Las Provincias" Attention! Jorge shirt in the photo above wore a watermelon and inside was the satellite phone that he had given away his wife.
upon finishing of reaching a few hours ago Mendoza by bus (12 hours from Buenos Aires). The flight was three hours late in arriving in Buenos Aires. The time difference in Spain is 4 hours. The expected "Alexander," which a few weeks ago and now there is to know ... The photo is the door where the permits are processed by the mountain. Tomorrow they go to "Punta de Vacas" (3 hours drive) to the first stage of approach ... This already! A sparrow has told us that .... this time bring more food in the last two expeditions together.
According to the latest information we have to xiquillos in Buenos Aires. Surely have come all the vegetarian restaurants in the capital before catching the bus to Mendoza.
